Face Masks for Sensitive Skin: A Scientist's Checklist

The best face mask for sensitive skin is a short, fragrance-free, hydrating formula without the irritants dermatologists flag most often: alcohol, fragrance, menthol, camphor, sodium lauryl sulfate, urea and exfoliating acids like glycolic and lactic acid. Whatever you choose, patch test it for 7 to 10 days before it goes on your face, as the American Academy of Dermatology recommends.

By Dr. Ian Baek, PhD in Biomaterial Sciences, founder of ORGAID. This guide is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition such as rosacea or eczema, ask your dermatologist.

The 7-point checklist

1. Fragrance-free, not "unscented." The AAD calls fragrance one of the most common causes of contact dermatitis, and notes that "unscented" products can contain a masking fragrance that still causes reactions (AAD).
2. No drying alcohol. Look for "alcohol denat." or "SD alcohol" near the top of the list. Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol are a different thing and are usually there to soften the formula.
3. No cooling or tingling agents. Menthol and camphor are on the AAD's list of ingredients to avoid for easily irritated skin (AAD).
4. No exfoliating acids in a leave-on mask. The same AAD list includes glycolic acid and lactic acid. Save exfoliation for a separate, deliberate step, if at all.
5. No harsh surfactants. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is on the AAD list too. It shows up in some foaming and "detox" masks.
6. A short ingredient list built on humectants. Glycerin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and allantoin hold water in the skin without the irritants above. The fewer ingredients a mask has, the easier it is to find the one that bothers you.
7. A patch test before the first full use. See the steps below.

Mask types, compared

How to patch test a face mask

The AAD's method for testing a new product (AAD):

1. Pick a quarter-sized spot where the product won't be rubbed or washed away.
2. Apply the normal amount you would use. For a sheet mask, pat on some of the serum from the pouch.
3. For a product you rinse off, leave it on for as long as the directions say, or about five minutes.
4. Repeat twice a day for 7 to 10 days.
5. If the spot turns red, itchy or swollen, wash it off gently and don't use the product again. No reaction after 7 to 10 days means you can try it on your face.

How ORGAID sheet masks check out

ORGAID masks are made without parabens, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde, alcohols, phthalates, sulfates or synthetic fragrance, and use Lactobacillus ferment as the preservative. Here is how each formula compares against the checklist above, from the full ingredient lists on the Organic Sheet Mask Multi-pack page.

If your skin is easily irritated, the Firming & Nourishing mask is the one to patch test first: it has no astringent and no citrus. The Anti-Aging mask contains witch hazel distillate, and the Vitamin C mask contains citrus ingredients, so test those separately. The Multi-pack includes two of each, which makes it easy to test one formula at a time, and the sheet mask collection shows all three side by side. To learn what the organic percentage on each mask means, read What makes a sheet mask organic.

FAQ

Are sheet masks good for sensitive skin? They can be, because most are water-based and hydrating, with no scrubbing or peeling. Whether one suits you depends on its ingredients, so run it through the checklist and patch test it first.

What is the difference between fragrance-free and unscented? Fragrance-free means no fragrance was added. Unscented can mean a fragrance was added to cover other smells, which the AAD warns can still cause a reaction. For sensitive skin, look for "fragrance-free."

How long should I patch test a new face mask? The AAD recommends applying it to a small test spot twice a day for 7 to 10 days. If there is no redness, itching or swelling after that, you can try it on your face.

What should I do if a mask stings or burns? Take it off and rinse your face gently with cool water, then don't use that product again. If the irritation doesn't settle, see a board-certified dermatologist.

Are organic or natural masks always gentler? No. Organic describes how ingredients are farmed, and natural ingredients such as essential oils and citrus can irritate some people. The ingredient list matters more than the claim on the front.

How often should I use a face mask if my skin is sensitive? Start with once a week after a clean patch test, then add a second session if your skin stays calm.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology, "Itchy rash could be contact dermatitis"
• American Academy of Dermatology, "7 rosacea skin care tips dermatologists recommend"
• American Academy of Dermatology, "How to test skin care products"